Antarctic Adventure # 20 - Albatross and Rock Hoppers
By Susan Ellis of keylifejourneys
We are heading in a westerly direction. There will be a southerly sweep around Terra Del Fuego to get to the Beagle Channel and so to Ushuaia, but there is a feeling in the air that the adventure is winding down. Today will be our last expedition landing. Indeed we were to have had two. The weather made one impossible. The famous westerlies battered us as we attempted a landing on Carcas Island in the West Falklands.
Did I have a sense of regret that the end was in sight? Did I want to go home? There were no regrets and yes when the time came I would be ready to go home. I cannot remember a time when the end of a trip was marked by my not being ready. It is as if I prepare myself for what there is, and once it is done, it is done. Life has been like that for me. No unrealistic expectations, just gratitude for what I have received. For many years another concept of acceptance has been with me. If my life was to end tomorrow, so be it. I am well content with what has been achieved.
I do believe that this attitude comes from the awareness early on in my life that my life was a miracle. Many thought it would end before the age of 5 years. Indeed I was led to believe that my mother brought me home from the hospital saying to the staff "well she might as well die at home." People didn't know how to handle that. There were no home support services; it was not an encouraged practice. Indeed many preferred that their disabled children were hidden away so as not to bring shame to the family. Still other families knew they didn't have a choice. Since my mother made the decision to bring me home after two years in hospital, the medical staff thought she must have had some nurses training. She had none. She was just a very determined lady.
So it has been with a sword of Damocles over my head that I ventured out into the world. And I didn't die! Go figure. I don't think I ever experience the usual teenage concept of invulnerability. I've always lived my life finishing each day knowing to be satisfied in case there was nothing more. Now that didn't stop me from having goals and dreams to attempt to fulfill, one might as well live one's dying. All of us are dying. Life is a slow process of dying. I suppose I have just never wasted my life being preoccupied with a fear of death. Life is short and it is for living, experiencing and growing. Growing I hope in consciousness, compassion and enlightenment.
So here I was on an icebreaker battling a major storm trying to have two more landings. We may have made it onto the shore at Carcas Island but there was no guarantee we would safely get off again. A zodiac was lowered around the coast. One of our passengers from Britain was finishing his vacation on the island, leaving the ship permanently. Eventuality they got him ashore. Later in Ushuaia I would spend a delightful hour in a coffee shop with his girlfriend as I awaited transportation to the airport.
But on that windy grey day in the Falklands we headed to West Point Island where a sheltered bay provided us with an easier landing. A stiff climb awaited us over a hill top to cliffs which would serve as a viewing place for some remarkable sightings. Indeed if this was to be the last expedition of this trip it provided me with a magical new experience. Luckily I chose not to do the hike but was transported in a Land Rover to the observation area. We walked through high clumps of tussock grass which served as a screen not only from the wildlife but also the very strong wind that was blowing up the cliffs.
Far below us the sea churned against formidable rocks, the spray came up with the wind. Amongst the frenzied fronds of tussock grass huge Black Browed Albatross chicks awaited the return of a parent with food. Unlike the nesting ground on the windless Prion Island, here the adults had the wind to take off and land. While waiting, the chicks preened themselves and on occasion stood up and stretched out their wings into the wind to strengthen them. It was an incredible sight to watch the wings fold back to the sides with two hinges. Unperturbed by the massive wings waving above them, Rock hopper penguins socialized in their own nests.
These tubby little birds only felt at risk when a parent Albatross came in to land. But somehow they all co-existed peacefully. When it was necessary to feed, the penguins had to walk down the cliff to the ocean. Some Rock Hoppers stood alone, molting. During the molt they cannot swim. Scavenging Skuas and Caracara circled and mingled and stole - anything. One member of our group dropped a glove which was soon airborne.
Back at the farm house it was so peaceful away from the roar of the wind.Caracara played and fought on the lawn. Interlocking gardens with stone walls, created over the past 100 years, provided space for veggie gardens, roses and lupins. Upland Geese foraged on the grasslands.The warm cup of tea and freshly baked cakes were welcomed.
Gradually the group went back to the dock, our zodiacs ferried us back to the ship. There was a major swell in the bay and the zodiac rose and fell by the ship's landing platform and we each had to wait the right moment to step on board. I certainly felt the advantage of being small at times like this. May willing arms and hands were reaching out to me and I often got whisked to safety - not under my own steam.
We left The Falklands and headed into another turbulent night.
We are heading in a westerly direction. There will be a southerly sweep around Terra Del Fuego to get to the Beagle Channel and so to Ushuaia, but there is a feeling in the air that the adventure is winding down. Today will be our last expedition landing. Indeed we were to have had two. The weather made one impossible. The famous westerlies battered us as we attempted a landing on Carcas Island in the West Falklands.
Did I have a sense of regret that the end was in sight? Did I want to go home? There were no regrets and yes when the time came I would be ready to go home. I cannot remember a time when the end of a trip was marked by my not being ready. It is as if I prepare myself for what there is, and once it is done, it is done. Life has been like that for me. No unrealistic expectations, just gratitude for what I have received. For many years another concept of acceptance has been with me. If my life was to end tomorrow, so be it. I am well content with what has been achieved.
I do believe that this attitude comes from the awareness early on in my life that my life was a miracle. Many thought it would end before the age of 5 years. Indeed I was led to believe that my mother brought me home from the hospital saying to the staff "well she might as well die at home." People didn't know how to handle that. There were no home support services; it was not an encouraged practice. Indeed many preferred that their disabled children were hidden away so as not to bring shame to the family. Still other families knew they didn't have a choice. Since my mother made the decision to bring me home after two years in hospital, the medical staff thought she must have had some nurses training. She had none. She was just a very determined lady.
So it has been with a sword of Damocles over my head that I ventured out into the world. And I didn't die! Go figure. I don't think I ever experience the usual teenage concept of invulnerability. I've always lived my life finishing each day knowing to be satisfied in case there was nothing more. Now that didn't stop me from having goals and dreams to attempt to fulfill, one might as well live one's dying. All of us are dying. Life is a slow process of dying. I suppose I have just never wasted my life being preoccupied with a fear of death. Life is short and it is for living, experiencing and growing. Growing I hope in consciousness, compassion and enlightenment.
So here I was on an icebreaker battling a major storm trying to have two more landings. We may have made it onto the shore at Carcas Island but there was no guarantee we would safely get off again. A zodiac was lowered around the coast. One of our passengers from Britain was finishing his vacation on the island, leaving the ship permanently. Eventuality they got him ashore. Later in Ushuaia I would spend a delightful hour in a coffee shop with his girlfriend as I awaited transportation to the airport.
But on that windy grey day in the Falklands we headed to West Point Island where a sheltered bay provided us with an easier landing. A stiff climb awaited us over a hill top to cliffs which would serve as a viewing place for some remarkable sightings. Indeed if this was to be the last expedition of this trip it provided me with a magical new experience. Luckily I chose not to do the hike but was transported in a Land Rover to the observation area. We walked through high clumps of tussock grass which served as a screen not only from the wildlife but also the very strong wind that was blowing up the cliffs.
Far below us the sea churned against formidable rocks, the spray came up with the wind. Amongst the frenzied fronds of tussock grass huge Black Browed Albatross chicks awaited the return of a parent with food. Unlike the nesting ground on the windless Prion Island, here the adults had the wind to take off and land. While waiting, the chicks preened themselves and on occasion stood up and stretched out their wings into the wind to strengthen them. It was an incredible sight to watch the wings fold back to the sides with two hinges. Unperturbed by the massive wings waving above them, Rock hopper penguins socialized in their own nests.
These tubby little birds only felt at risk when a parent Albatross came in to land. But somehow they all co-existed peacefully. When it was necessary to feed, the penguins had to walk down the cliff to the ocean. Some Rock Hoppers stood alone, molting. During the molt they cannot swim. Scavenging Skuas and Caracara circled and mingled and stole - anything. One member of our group dropped a glove which was soon airborne.
Back at the farm house it was so peaceful away from the roar of the wind.Caracara played and fought on the lawn. Interlocking gardens with stone walls, created over the past 100 years, provided space for veggie gardens, roses and lupins. Upland Geese foraged on the grasslands.The warm cup of tea and freshly baked cakes were welcomed.
Gradually the group went back to the dock, our zodiacs ferried us back to the ship. There was a major swell in the bay and the zodiac rose and fell by the ship's landing platform and we each had to wait the right moment to step on board. I certainly felt the advantage of being small at times like this. May willing arms and hands were reaching out to me and I often got whisked to safety - not under my own steam.
We left The Falklands and headed into another turbulent night.
Posted by Key Life Journey's Blog at 5/12/2010 9:10 PM 
Categories: Antarctica, Falkland Islands
Tags: West Point Island Upland geese Rockhopper penguins Black browed albatross The Falkland Islands Polar Star caracara
Categories: Antarctica, Falkland Islands
Tags: West Point Island Upland geese Rockhopper penguins Black browed albatross The Falkland Islands Polar Star caracara
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