Antarctic Adventure #13 - St. Andrews Bay, South Georgia
By Susan Ellis of Key Life Journeys
Next morning Friday 7th March we prepared for a landing at St. Andrew’s Bay on the east coast of South Georgia. As we approached we saw another long sand and pebble beach with a stream cutting diagonally through it. Tussock grass covered hills rose up to a backdrop of grey glaciated mountains. A wide river came through the valley to the south. Our rainbow was still with us; the sky was a hazy blue with misty rain filled clouds dampening us. Today would be the ultimate experience of King penguins.
I was grateful to have brought with me a dabber type lens cleaner for my camera for the wind driven damp mist and rain clouded the lens very quickly. Our expedition crew has left us a trail of red flags to follow and we were now familiar with the pairs of triangular scull and cross bone flags indicating lines we should not cross.
My camera’s tripod served as a balancing cane to cross the rushing stream and hike up a knoll to look down on a huge river valley. On our journey to this point, fur seals and small groups of King Penguins had accompanied us. I was not prepared for the sight that greeted me at the top of the ridge. Below me played out the drama of the lives of 150,000 pairs of King Penguins and chicks. Since parenting takes 10-13 months it is not completed in one cycle of seasons. Before me were all stages of the story.
Molting happens before breeding. The birds endeavor to find last season’s mate but in the brief time available only 20% do. If monogamy is not possible a new mate is sought. When the pair has decided to court they walk around together for a few days bonding. However during this walk about, last years mate may show up.
The interloper will walk along and there will be much hitting with wings and pushing back with the chest until one backs off. When the male decides it is time to mate he will encourage the female to lie down by gently pushing her down with his neck. The female however decides when to respond, choosing time and place.
Egg laying takes place between November and April. The egg is incubated on one parent’s feet covered by a fold of skin. They alternated the role while the other goes to feed. After 54 days the chick hatches. The chicks are covered in brown down, which made early explorers believe they were a different species and nicknamed them oakum boys.
In winter between May and August the chicks will huddle together and the oldest and strongest will survive until food supplies improve in September. Ultimately they will mature, molt and take to the ocean.
From my windy perch I observed all stages of the cycle. Some penguins were molting; others were courting and bonding. Many pairs were incubating eggs too late in the season to raise a chick that will survive the winter. There were oakum boys of various sizes being fussed over by proud parents. Broken eggshells blew in the wind and scavenger birds – skuas and snowy sheathbills – waited to pounce. Skeletal remains of penguins provided evidence of the interdependency of all on the food chain and the harshness of the environment.
Another impression etched in my memory is the sound experience of witnessing 150,000 pairs of birds plus chicks living together on the muddy banks of a grey flowing river. An endless cacophony of honks and whistles each sound unique and recognizable by the family. I was temporarily a guest in another world. If at another location I had felt in rapture, here I felt exalted by the experience.
However on retracing my steps back to the beach where the Zodiacs waited, I was brought down to size when confronting a raging stream to cross. Its banks and bed were moving pebbles. A strong wind blew. My 4ft 10 inch body felt rather vulnerable. I waited at the bank until a tall man came by and I grabbed an arm. His wife was on the other arm and consented to the joint crossing. The ship’s doctor was standing mid stream directing traffic across the shallowest part. The water rushed past my knees. The water rose up inside the waterproof pants I wore and flushed down into my Wellington boots making each step heavy. It was like walking in concrete blocks. On reaching the other bank I tipped out the water from my boots and found my feet now squelching in wet woolen socks.
The discomfort was more of anticipating the experience than the actual experience. I think we all have a concept of what it would feel like to be soaked to the skin in the sub arctic. But as I walked I realized that my body warmth was being transferred to the water locked in the woolly socks and this provided a layer of insulation. I soon realized that as long as I kept moving, I would not freeze before reaching the ship. I once more began to enjoy the scenery.
We were now at the mouth of the stream where freshwater met the salty ocean. Penguins walked into the water and flopped over on their tummies and swam off like massive, sleek ducks, to feed.
We were back on the M/V Polar Star for lunch. My wet feet, insulated by wool had not frozen. The video in my still cameras had captured some precious moments in the life of King Penguins and I remained with an overwhelming feeling of great joy until we reached our next destination that afternoon.
Next morning Friday 7th March we prepared for a landing at St. Andrew’s Bay on the east coast of South Georgia. As we approached we saw another long sand and pebble beach with a stream cutting diagonally through it. Tussock grass covered hills rose up to a backdrop of grey glaciated mountains. A wide river came through the valley to the south. Our rainbow was still with us; the sky was a hazy blue with misty rain filled clouds dampening us. Today would be the ultimate experience of King penguins.
I was grateful to have brought with me a dabber type lens cleaner for my camera for the wind driven damp mist and rain clouded the lens very quickly. Our expedition crew has left us a trail of red flags to follow and we were now familiar with the pairs of triangular scull and cross bone flags indicating lines we should not cross.
My camera’s tripod served as a balancing cane to cross the rushing stream and hike up a knoll to look down on a huge river valley. On our journey to this point, fur seals and small groups of King Penguins had accompanied us. I was not prepared for the sight that greeted me at the top of the ridge. Below me played out the drama of the lives of 150,000 pairs of King Penguins and chicks. Since parenting takes 10-13 months it is not completed in one cycle of seasons. Before me were all stages of the story.
Molting happens before breeding. The birds endeavor to find last season’s mate but in the brief time available only 20% do. If monogamy is not possible a new mate is sought. When the pair has decided to court they walk around together for a few days bonding. However during this walk about, last years mate may show up.
The interloper will walk along and there will be much hitting with wings and pushing back with the chest until one backs off. When the male decides it is time to mate he will encourage the female to lie down by gently pushing her down with his neck. The female however decides when to respond, choosing time and place.
In winter between May and August the chicks will huddle together and the oldest and strongest will survive until food supplies improve in September. Ultimately they will mature, molt and take to the ocean.
From my windy perch I observed all stages of the cycle. Some penguins were molting; others were courting and bonding. Many pairs were incubating eggs too late in the season to raise a chick that will survive the winter. There were oakum boys of various sizes being fussed over by proud parents. Broken eggshells blew in the wind and scavenger birds – skuas and snowy sheathbills – waited to pounce. Skeletal remains of penguins provided evidence of the interdependency of all on the food chain and the harshness of the environment.
Another impression etched in my memory is the sound experience of witnessing 150,000 pairs of birds plus chicks living together on the muddy banks of a grey flowing river. An endless cacophony of honks and whistles each sound unique and recognizable by the family. I was temporarily a guest in another world. If at another location I had felt in rapture, here I felt exalted by the experience.
However on retracing my steps back to the beach where the Zodiacs waited, I was brought down to size when confronting a raging stream to cross. Its banks and bed were moving pebbles. A strong wind blew. My 4ft 10 inch body felt rather vulnerable. I waited at the bank until a tall man came by and I grabbed an arm. His wife was on the other arm and consented to the joint crossing. The ship’s doctor was standing mid stream directing traffic across the shallowest part. The water rushed past my knees. The water rose up inside the waterproof pants I wore and flushed down into my Wellington boots making each step heavy. It was like walking in concrete blocks. On reaching the other bank I tipped out the water from my boots and found my feet now squelching in wet woolen socks.
The discomfort was more of anticipating the experience than the actual experience. I think we all have a concept of what it would feel like to be soaked to the skin in the sub arctic. But as I walked I realized that my body warmth was being transferred to the water locked in the woolly socks and this provided a layer of insulation. I soon realized that as long as I kept moving, I would not freeze before reaching the ship. I once more began to enjoy the scenery.
We were now at the mouth of the stream where freshwater met the salty ocean. Penguins walked into the water and flopped over on their tummies and swam off like massive, sleek ducks, to feed.
We were back on the M/V Polar Star for lunch. My wet feet, insulated by wool had not frozen. The video in my still cameras had captured some precious moments in the life of King Penguins and I remained with an overwhelming feeling of great joy until we reached our next destination that afternoon.
Posted by Key Life Journey's Blog at 11/1/2008 11:16 AM 
Categories: Antarctica, South Georgia
Tags: M/V Polar Star St. Andrew's Bay oakum boys king penguins skuas South Georgia snowy sheathbill
Categories: Antarctica, South Georgia
Tags: M/V Polar Star St. Andrew's Bay oakum boys king penguins skuas South Georgia snowy sheathbill
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