By Susan Ellis of Key Life Journeys

On the M/V Polar Star there is a Wet Room. After returning to the deck from the Zodiac we must have our boots and waterproof pants hosed down, and then we walk through a bath of disinfectant, before entering the Wet Room. Here we disrobe our outer gear leaving parkas, outer pants, boots and life jacket on pegs. We retrieve our dry shoes and through another door enter a main passageway in the ship not far from the dining room.

I think we were in a stunned silence as we performed the changing ritual and went back to our cabins. My frozen hands moved slowly to complete the necessary tasks. March 1st would be a day to remember and at the end of our expedition the Captain would remark that in all his years at sea this would be the day he too would remember.

But with the help of radar and radio and skilled Zodiac crew, we all made it safely back to the ship. Later we would learn that we had battled a Force 9 strong gale. We would also learn that the ship had moved several times to evade the path of mammoth icebergs on the move.

Lunch was well underway by the time I reached the dining room. The always excellent soup was a joy to experience. We were now heading north trying to get out of the storm's path.

 
I went to the Bridge to witness the journey. The route not straight as many huge icebergs blocked our way. Each one is so different. Some so blue with air no longer trapped within their bulk. Others striated with browns and grey showing how layer upon layer is formed over time. Snow rests on our deck. I wear the boots I bought in Canada to walk the decks. The sea is rough, it remains difficult to walk. I spend the time alone deep in my own thoughts, reliving the morning. Dealing with the emotions aroused when I discover the protective layers for my camcorder were not enough and it has died. The trip of a lifetime and the video camera has gone. There are 16 more days on this trip. But I learn that both still cameras take good video and I have brought ample memory cards for them. I can make the best of it.


 

As the afternoon progresses and the effects of the storm diminish, the clouds give way to patches of sun. The light on ice, rock, water and clouds is ever changing. Slowly the morning's tension evaporates but I am aware that I am forever changed. A naivety lost perhaps. Almost the worst could have happened on that Zodiac ride back to the ship. I am aware a test of sorts took place. I believed I passed. That knowledge is something I will take away with me. It is almost as if a message lay in the wind for me to grasp. It is not yet deciphered but I hold it close to my soul.
 

 This is the Weddell Sea on the eastern side of the Antarctic Peninsula. A sea which until 2002 had a far larger permanent ice shelf than it has today. The Weddell Sea whose ice froze around Shackleton's ship the Endurance, trapping it in a dance to the death in 1915. When the sea ice receded the crew sailed to Elephant Island in three small lifeboats. But I would live their journey on another day.

Now, we were heading to the Frijdtof Channel to anchor close to protective islands. Another expedition ship would join us to view vivid land shapes, brightly contrasting storm skies followed by a calm setting sun.
 

 
 
I have survived Snow Hill Island.